Mulberry silk is the silk of the Bombyx mori silkworm, fed exclusively on the leaves of the mulberry tree. Raised in calm, controlled conditions, the worms spin a particularly long, even and fine thread. A single cocoon yields several hundred metres in one piece.

The fibre is made of a protein, fibroin. Sericin, the gum that holds the cocoon together, is removed during degumming. What remains is a smooth, cool, softly lustrous fibre – the finest silk there is.

Wild silks such as tussah come from other species that feed in the open. Their threads are shorter and less regular, the cloth rougher. For anything that lies directly on skin and hair, mulberry silk is the reference.

Momme (mm) is the Japanese unit of weight for silk: 1 momme = 4.34 g/m². The number tells you how much silk is in a square metre of cloth – how dense the weave is. The higher, the heavier, more opaque and more durable. The lower, the lighter and more sheer.

• 16–19 momme: light and cheap, but thin – the silk wears faster and turns see-through over time. Common in budget pillowcases.
• 22 momme: dense, smooth and long-lasting while still light and cool. The standard for quality silk bedding.
• 25 momme and up: heavier and more expensive again, noticeably warmer – rarely needed for a pillowcase.

Our pillowcases are 22 momme (≈ 95 g/m²). A 50 × 70 cm pillowcase therefore weighs 76 to 82 grams; our sample weighs 81 grams on the scale. You can check it at home with a kitchen scale – the usual 16 momme would come in at around 60 grams.

Satin is a weave, not a material. The satin weave lays the threads so the surface comes out smooth and glossy. A satin can be woven from polyester, cotton or silk. If a pillowcase only says “satin” or “silky”, it is almost always polyester.

Silk charmeuse is the satin weave in silk: a glossy face, a matte back. That is exactly our fabric.

The difference lies in the fibre. Polyester is synthetic: it barely breathes, traps heat, builds up static and absorbs no moisture – at body temperature it soon feels warm. Silk is a protein fibre: breathable, temperature-regulating and cool to the touch.

How to tell real silk: the label (“100 % mulberry silk” with a momme figure rather than “satin” or “silky”), the price (22 momme silk cannot be made for CHF 15), the weight, and the burn test: a few threads from the inside seam – silk chars and smells of burnt hair, polyester melts into a hard bead.

• Less friction. The smooth charmeuse surface lets hair glide instead of rubbing. Less frizz, fewer tangles, fewer split ends and less breakage. Curls and blowouts last longer.
• Less moisture loss. Cotton absorbs: night cream, hair oil and your skin's own moisture end up in the pillow. Silk takes up far less, so your care stays where it belongs.
• Fewer sleep creases. The skin isn't crumpled and “pulled” during the night. The morning pillow marks stay away.
• Temperature regulation. Cool in summer, comfortable in winter. Silk breathes and lets heat out instead of trapping it.
• Tolerance. A smooth natural fibre that doesn't shed lint or scratch – which is why silk is often recommended for sensitive skin. Our silk is certified to OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100, product class I.

And what silk doesn't do: it doesn't erase wrinkles and it doesn't grow hair. It takes the friction out of the night. That's all – and quite a lot.

Honestly: silk is not a medicine and does not treat acne. What it changes is the environment your skin spends eight hours in.

• Less friction on skin that is already irritated.
• Less absorption: your skincare stays on your face rather than in the pillow – and less residue builds up in the fabric.
• Smooth and lint-free, with no fibres left lying on the skin.

With blemish-prone skin one thing matters most: change the pillowcase often – every two to three nights – and wash it at 30 °C with a silk detergent. Two pillowcases in rotation make that easy. Persistent skin problems belong with a dermatologist, not an online shop.

It is often claimed, usually with reference to sericin. Except that sericin is largely removed during degumming. In a smooth silk charmeuse there is hardly any left. So we don't make that promise.

What is true: silk absorbs little moisture, dries quickly, doesn't shed lint and can be washed regularly without any trouble. That is more hygienic than any promise.

100 % mulberry silk · 22 momme · grade 6A · charmeuse weave · from OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 certified production (product class I, the strictest level, the one that also applies to baby articles) · pillowcase with a hidden zipper. All in Ivory.

On the grade: the letters describe the fibre quality – A is the long-fibre, highest class – and the number the level within it. 6A is the top. Grading is an industry convention, not an official standard. That is why we also state the weight: that one you can check.

Silk is tougher than its reputation. With a few simple rules it stays beautiful for years.

Washing

• Hand wash in lukewarm water (max. 30 °C) or the delicate cycle for silk/wool.
• A mild silk detergent – no bleach, no fabric softener, no enzyme detergents.
• In a laundry bag and with similar colours. Zip closed.
• Don't soak, don't wring.

Drying

• No tumble dryer.
• Dry flat or hanging, in the shade – direct sun bleaches silk.

Ironing

• If needed: on the lowest setting (silk), inside out, slightly damp.
• A steam iron held at a distance works well too.

Storing

• Dry and dark, ideally in the silk pouch.
• Not sealed in plastic – silk needs to breathe.

Tip: two pillowcases in rotation extend the life of both – and you always have a fresh one.

Yes. Delicate cycle for silk or wool, 30 °C at most, low spin, in a laundry bag with the zip closed. Hand washing is a little gentler but not essential. What really harms silk is not the machine but heat, bleach, enzymes and the tumble dryer.

Like any other bedding: about every one to two weeks. If you wear hair oil or a rich night cream, or your skin is blemish-prone, wash more often. Regular washing at 30 °C doesn't harm silk – the wrong detergents and heat do.

It is usually one of these:

• Water too hot, or the tumble dryer. Heat attacks the protein fibre and takes away its lustre.
• The wrong detergent. Enzymes, bleach and strongly alkaline all-purpose detergents break down fibroin – that is their job on protein stains, and silk is protein.
• Residue. Fabric softener leaves a film on the fibre; hard water leaves limescale. Both make silk dull and stiff.
• Sun while drying. UV light bleaches and weakens the fibre.

To get the feel back: wash again cold with a silk detergent, add a splash of clear white vinegar to the final rinse (it dissolves limescale and residue; the smell goes as it dries), dry flat, then iron inside out while slightly damp on the silk setting. The lustre usually returns.